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Platinum Diamond Eternity Ring

Alayne had a sentimental ring, we had already removed the central round brilliant cut diamond and set it into a bubble-style ring in platinum for her.

Her bubble style ring is quite large, it’s set with round brilliant cut diamonds over three bands, and whilst Alayne absolutely loves it, she wanted something that was more ‘everyday’ to wear. Her bubble style ring is platinum and she wanted this new ring to be made of the same metal so they could be worn together as a set.

In the ring above, we re-set all of her round brilliant cut diamonds; the large one from her engagement ring and the diamonds from her wedding ring.

Alayne’s original engagement ring still had some diamonds set into the shoulders, these were a mixture of square princess cuts and rectangular baguette cuts. These were the diamonds we would use for this creation.

Alayne wanted an eternity ring made, the first job was to unset her diamonds.

She had square princess cuts and rectangular baguette cuts. Louise suggested a stone layout where her diamonds were alternating around the top half of a platinum band, this would have a square profile so it was in keeping with her cuts of diamonds.

Alayne asked for a CAD design so she could see what the finished ring would look like.

Alayne diamonds were ready for measuring for CAD. Her diamonds are all different sizes. I’ve shown the stone map to illustrate how different they are.

This means that each diamond has its own made-to-measure setting. CAD (Computer Aided Design) is a powerful tool that allows us to design jewellery in extreme detail. Using this computer program to create a slightly different setting size for each diamond, and then to cast this as one piece, gives the strongest profile for the ring.

You can see the CAD design that Louise showed to Alayne, after a brief chat with her husband, she asked if we could cast this in platinum for her.

We 3D printed a wax copy to cast with. Showing our customers photo-realistic images allows them to see exactly what they are getting before any precious metals are cast. The wax is printed from the same computer file, so it is exactly the same as the images viewed.

The ancient art of Lost Wax Casting creates an exact replica of the wax print in platinum. The wax is encased in a substance called ‘investment’ this is similar to plaster of paris. It is left to dry out and then heated so the wax melts and runs out of the bottom – it is ‘lost’. There is now a mould of the ring inside of the investment. Molten platinum is ‘flung’ into the mould and centrifugal force spins it into every nook and cranny of the mould. This is plunged into cold water and the investment bubble away revealing the platinum ring inside.

The platinum then needs ‘cleaning up’ this is the process of filing and polishing the surface texture smooth, and then to a high shine.

This take quite a bit of time to achieve, because there are many different grits of paper to work through, to bring cast platinum to a high shine.

Once Alayne’s ring was cleaned up to a high shine, it was ready for setting. This took exceptional skill to achieve; completely flush set alternating square princess cuts and rectangular baguette cuts in platinum.

It took Nico the best part of a day to set this ring perfectly. Once set, this beauty had a final polish to bring out that amazing shine!

It was a complete delight to welcome Alayne and her husband back to our Shaftesbury Design Studio to collect this ring just before Christmas – well, it was her present from Santa after all!

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