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Platinum and Diamond Bubble-Style Ring

Alayne had these sentimental diamond rings that she wanted re-modelled into a different style. She wanted her diamonds set into a new platinum or 18ct gold ring.

Alayne made an appointment for a Design Consultation at our Shaftesbury Design Studio and had a cup of tea with Louise. This talked through some different design ideas.

Louise talked through the different styles of settings and the overall look and feel that Alayne wanted to achieve. They discussed whether Alayne wanted to re-set all of her diamonds from both rings or just a selection of them.

Alayne decided to re-set the round brilliant cut diamonds, and keep the square princess cut diamonds for something else. This decision led their conversation to honing in on exactly what Alayne would like. She decided on a bubble-style ring with three strands in platinum.

The first job is to un-set Alayne’s diamonds so that we can accurately measure them for a new bespoke CAD (Computer Aided Design). This powerful computer program allows us to show our customers photo-realistic images of what their design will look like. And to print a 3D resin copy for them to view and try on – before any precious metals are cast.

You can see Mark carefully un-setting her diamonds in our workshop.

Alayne’s knuckles are larger than her fingers so Louise designed her ring to be slightly oval and not perfectly round. Doing this helps to balance the ring and can stop it swinging around.

The one thing that Alayne was not sure on, was whether to choose an all platinum design, or to mix this metal with 18ct yellow gold. The beauty of CAD is that we can change the colour of settings and different parts of the design to show exactly what this will look like.

Louise showed a few different versions of the CAD design to Alayne as she wanted to explore whether wanted all platinum, or a mixture of platinum and 18ct yellow gold.

Alayne wanted to try a 3D resin print on, to see how it fitted. This is the grey version above. Having a resin 3D printed is a fantastic way to try your ring on, before any precious metals are cast.

Alayne felt that this first design was too wide, she tried on her first 3D resin print and wanted to make some changes.

Louise discussed the idea of moving some diamonds further around the upper and lower band, to create space, and enable the two outer bands to move inwards. Alayne preferred her second design to her first design, but it wasn’t perfect.

When she returned to our Design Studio to try on her second resin print, she felt she wanted her diamonds closer together, and the outer bands tucked underneath her large central diamond. You can see this transformation taking shape in the images above.

The exercise of viewing a CAD image and then trying on a resin version is such an invaluable way of ensuring you get exactly what you want, before any precious metals are cast.

Louise would rather do this as many times as is necessary, rather than to not bother, and then have to start chopping up a newly cast ring and moving parts of it around!

At this point Alayne was very happy with the third design, she knew that it’s perfect for her. Alayne chose to have her ring cast in all platinum in the finish! We think this makes for a very classy design.

The next job is to cast her design in platinum. This was done in three parts – its called a 3 piece cast. The reason behind this is to help our Goldsmith’s ‘clean up’ the metal. Lost Wax Casting leaves a fine fingerprint like texture to the platinum. We need to file, sandpaper and polish this smooth and to a high shine. Doing this as three individual parts, and then soldering them together gives a better finish to the ring.

The wax we cast this with was 3D printed from her CAD file. This means it’s exactly the same as the images she saw, and the 3D resin print she tried on. This gives Alayne complete peace of mind.

The inside of the two outer bands were shaped to hug her central diamond. You can see how perfectly these fit together.

After cleaning up is complete and the texture has been removed, its time to solder the three pieces together to form the ring.

These settings have been made to measure around Alayne’s diamonds so they all fit perfectly into their settings! Her diamonds have been rubover set, with platinum being ‘rubbed’ all of the way around the edges to hold them in place. This is also called bezel setting.

Alayne was thrilled with her new design, it was such a delight to see the look on her face when she returned to our Design Studio!

She subsequently commissioned us to create another platinum ring with her square princess and rectangular baguette cut diamonds! – But that ring is another story…..

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