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Hand Cut Aquamarine, Handmade Ring

Steve handmade this bespoke silver ring, around Martin’s hand cut aquamarine.

This gemstone was entirely hand cut by Martin, our Lapidary Artist. Hand cutting gemstones is an exceptional skill. Martin uses CAD (Computer Aided Design) to create his special and unique gemstone cuts. Once he has the gemstone design finished, he sources rough gem material and inspects it to find the perfect piece. Sometimes he will painstakingly sort through parcels of many rough stones, looking for the best one.

Martin follows his own design and cuts the rough gem material by hand, facet by facet, until it sparkles beautifully. Each tiny side to a cut gemstone is called a facet. The ones on the top are called the Crown Facets and the ones on the bottom are called the Pavilion Facets – these generally come down into a point. The point is called The Culet. The main large top facet of the gem is called The Table, and the widest part of the stone is called The Girdle.

Martin works out all of the internal angles of each gem he cuts by hand, to ensure it sparkles. The light needs to enter the top of the stone, bounce across the stone and back out of the top, when this happens correctly, what we see is ‘sparkle’.

This aquamarine is exceptionally clear with no inclusions inside, inclusions are often other gemstones that formed at the same time as the main or host gemstone (the aquamarine). It is a really beautiful pale green/blue colour and had been deliberately cut in this very deep style to maximise its depth of colour.

We wanted to showcase this aquamarine off to the maximum, so Louise designed a simple silver ring to show it off perfectly!
Steve did a fantastic job hand making this one!

This creation started off with a hand drawn template, the template was drawn to scale, and made to fit the aquamarine perfectly. This template was stuck to a sheet of recycled silver and then cut out using a fine saw blade by hand. At this point the silver is flat, it needs to be curved to fit the aquamarines. It also needs to be hand formed into the correct shape for the ring. Once the setting was moulded around the aquamarine, it was soldered together. This setting needed to be high to accommodate the depth of the aquamarine.

You can see inside the setting for the aquamarine, there is a ‘seat’ for it to sit on. The seat supports the stone from the underside, then Steve used a burnishing tool to carefully and expertly set the stone. This ring is a full rubover setting (also called a bezel setting). Silver is ‘rubbed’ or pushed all of the way around the gemstone, giving a modern flush look.

This is a very traditional way of working to create a very modern looking ring, entirely made by hand.

This aquamarine is truly beautiful.

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