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Adding Aquamarines to a Diamond Ring

Charlotte had a platinum and diamond engagement ring, with a detailed claw setting. She came to our Shaftesbury Design Studio with her husband Dan to enquire about adding two aquamarines to her ring, and sizing it up from size J1/2 to size L.

She had twin boys who were born in March and wanted their birthstones added either side of her diamond; aquamarine is the birthstone for March babies.

Louise read the hallmark inside Charlottes ring and was able to identify the maker. From this trade supplier she could source two more settings in platinum that were exactly the same as Charlottes diamond one.

We had the new settings especially cast for Charlotte and then gathered a selection of aquamarine gemstones to find the best fit for these settings. Louise hand sorted the different grades of aquamarines into pairs, ensuring that each pair looked identical.

We offered Charlotte a choice of different colours of aquamarine, ranging from pale blue to medium blue. Charlotte had specified that she didn’t want the brightest or darkest blue aquamarine in her ring.

Charlotte chose the medium blue aquamarines, this was a great choice as the medium blue hues sparkle beautifully next to her diamond. The medium blue offers a great contrast between her white diamond and platinum ring. We then double checked that her chosen pair of aquamarines would fit into her new settings exactly.

It was time to solder the settings into Charlotte’s ring, Mark expertly cut the band off and then handmade a platinum bridge for her new settings to be soldered onto. This bridge was required as the number of settings was going up from one to three in a row, and they needed something to ‘sit on’.

The tops of the claw settings were soldered to each other, doing this braces the ring for strength. Mark soldered her band back on to either side of her new settings, and then sized her ring to a size L.

With her platinum cleaned and polished, it was time to set her gemstones into place. Freshly cast platinum has a light texture to it, takes a long time to bring this metal up to a high shine, there is process of filing, using different grades of sandpaper and polishing to achieve a shiny finish.

You can see her gemstones being set, this is a highly skilled job, it takes years of practice and experience to be able to set gemstones. How gemstones are set can change how a finished piece looks.

Each claw was filed out so that there was a ‘seat’ for the girdle (widest part of the gemstones) to sit on. Then they were gently bent over the top of the stone. Each claw is filed smooth and finished by polishing to a high shine. We matched the style of these finished claws to the ones already holding her diamond in place.

Charlotte was over the moon with her finished ring! It was a complete delight to welcome her back to our Design Studio to collect this piece.

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